Around the World ... Botswana

1991/2001

II
15 September 1992. Arriving from Zimbabwe by steam train we continue our trip towards Maun, hub for the Okavango delta. On our way we'll pass through the Makgadikgadi salt pans. En route we're an interesting sight to local people ourselves. Our first stop is at Baines' Baobabs, named after Thomas Baines who painted them in 1862. Baines' Baobabs are situated in the Kudiakam Pan, remnant of a prehistoric lake which is still flooded after abundant rains. Every now and then we encounter some wildlife, like this curious oribi. The road here is limited to two tracks along a fence that serves to separate cattle from wildlife. The carcass of a giraffe makes an interesting stop. Possibly it's a victim of the cattle fence. Maun serves a the starting point for a stay inside the Okavango. Near the camp site there's a large termite mound. We travel by speed boat into the Okavango towards Mporota Island. Gradually the riverbank looses its civilized character and becomes the scene for more wild life. Deep in the Okavango there's no more speed boating and a mokoro becomes the preferred transport medium. From our bush camp at Mporota Island we experience a nice sun set. The next days we're poled by mokoro though the small streams near Mporota Island. In the afternoon we have a swim in the stream accompanied by some local kids (and potentially some crocs as we learn later). The bird life is prolific at Mporota Island. A white-browed robin-chat sits on a twig behind camp. Early in the morning the village's women go to the river for water balancing the filled buckets on their heads. On our trip back to Maun we startle an african jacana. With its outstretched and slender toes it seems to walk on water. Actually it walks on water lilly leaves. Had we know that these big crocs lived in the streams we probably wouldn't have gone for a swim the day before. Close to Maun wild life changes into cattle again though the occasional oxpecker serves as wild accent. Another piece of wildlife near Maun is formed by these bunch of vultures waiting for their turn near the carcass of a horse. Back in the camp in Maun we see a vervet monkey inspecting a 4WD. Next day we take off for a flight over the Okavango plains, a seasonally flooded wetland providing wildlife a chance to escape the summer heat. From the plane we see a herd of elephant crossing the plains. The Okavango is a river that flows into the desert and evaporates before reaching the sea. It provides a safe habitat for vast amounts of wildlife. Back on solid ground we continue our trip northward to the Moremi Game Reserve. In a tree we find the remnants of a leopard's meal. A red-billed hornbill watches while we make a lunch stop. Moremi, in the heart of the Okavango is known for its abundance of wildlife and variety of landscapes. In the plains we encounter large herds of impala. With a huge leap this impala crosses the road just after one of the trucks that we make our game drive with. Other typical animals include hartebeests, tsessebes and various other kinds of antelopes. A small herd of zebras passes by in the golden light of the afternoon sun. Where there are antelopes there are predators as well but this lioness is not in the mood for hunting, yet. And sometimes no hunting is necessary. This hippo probably wasn't killed by hunting lionesses but could well have died from other causes. While the sun continues to set one of our last encounters for the day are these two giraffes. Soon it will be dark. Early morning brings a surprise in the form of a wading hippo. During the night they leave the water to graze but this one hasn't submerged itself fully yet. His friends already congregate in the safety of a pool. Another game drive in Moremi Game Reserve brings us to this lonely male elephant strolling by lazily. A yellow-hornbill has taken a nice place to sit and watch the environment. A startled female kudu starts a sprint when we suddenly appear around the corner of a low bush. More kudu's follow and in the distance we see a young male crossing the tracks. During a lunch stop we see a baboon trying to open a bin. It doesn't succeed in opening it but it's able to snatch an apple from one of our fellow travellers. Unintentionally we separate two elephants from their herd. They don't like us being so close and signal this with the flapping of their ears. It's their way of saying: back off, you're too close to our liking. So we do as a charging elephant is something better prevented. Our next destination is Chobe NP, known for its large herds of elephants although its number of lions is ok too. Near Savuti we see this bunch of lionesses resting. They look well fed and don't seem in a hurry to start hunting. A crowned lapwing calls at dusk. The night at Savuti will bring passing elephants, lions and hyenas and the night is full of their sounds. After a restless night at Savuti we continue towards Serondella, next to the Chobe river. While sitting at the river bank a curious young baboon checks what that human primate is doing. Serondella camp turns out to be the playground of a bunch of banded mongoose. Sunset at the Chobe river. Breathless we watch a herd of elephant play in and near the water of the Chobe river. Trunk-wrestling of two elephants at dusk. Next morning, and still in Chobe we make our last game drive in Botswana and we're greeted by a pair of pukus. At the same time a grey loerie checks us from above. Once one of the most dangerous animals of the plains, the remains of this buffalo now seems a little less threatening. A flock of pelicans swim by nicely lined up. From a tree a white-backed vulture scans the scenery for signs of a distant meal. Cautiously this baboon with child clinging to its belly checks whether it's safe to cross.
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