As usual by now we get up early for breakfast. When we look outside we see something unfamiliar by now: it's foggy and it's drizzling. Quite some difference with the weather we've experienced sofar. Up on the bridge we check the water temperature again. It's 4.2 ºC, which is still higher than expected. Did we pass the Convergence or not?
We expect to arrive at South Georgia around noon. The plan is to first visit Elsehul. Elsehul is the location of a vast colony of over a million fur seals. Till then we're entertained by lectures about king penguins (Jim), king penguins (Doug) and king penguins (Julie). Meanwhile the rains become heavier and the visibility remains very limited. This way we won't see much at Elsehul and Doug decides to instead directly go towards the Salisbury Plains inside the Bay of Isles. At 2 PM we carefully enter the bay and drop anchor opposite the Salisbury Plains. It's still raining heavily. Time to test our foul weather gear!
After a wet zodiac ride we land on a pebbled beach. Right beside us a king penguin comes tobogganing out of the water, its flippers tapping on the water. It has been out feeding judging from its bulging belly. A few fur seals lie on the beach. A gentoo penguin and a chinstrap penguin are standing close together. They seem to be lost as no other gentoo or chinstrap can be seen anywhere near. Through the low clouds and the steadily falling rain we vaguely see the Morris and Lucas glaciers.
Slowly, in penguin pace, we start walking towards the main colony. Aggressive fur seals are kept at a distance by tickling their whiskers with a bamboo pole. This may seem disturbing to the seals but female fur seals use the same technique (although not with a pole). For sure we don't want to get bitten. Their teeth are very sharp.
When we reach the main colony, it's still raining. With our cameras safely in our dry bags we just enjoy the spectacular scenery in front of us: a large plain gently sloping upwards over the hills in the distance.
The entire plain is literally packed with king penguins. Adults, their bellies completely filled with fish walk towards the colony, brown fluffy 'Oakum Boys' huddle together with others wearing the same brown coat and moulting young silently endure this annoying period in their life. What a place!
The air is filled with the sounds of about 300,000 penguins. Penguins call their mate or chick with a shrieking sound. Rivaling males chase each other while trying to hit their rival with their flippers. A pair of king penguins walks back to belly in synchronous motion as part of their courtship ritual. Added to that we hear the grumpy sounds of elephant seals lying in the mud at the colony's perimeter.
After a couple of hours it's time to go back. Back at the zodiac we turn out to be the last but two. All others already went back to the ship. It's chilly. The wind has gathered strength and the sea is rougher than this morning but we manage to get aboard safely. Our foul weather gear has proved itself. Our daypacks are soaken wet but we're still dry and the camera's in our new dry bags are dry too. Let's hope the weather will be better tomorrow.